This FAQ page was
developed to give insight and answers to the most common
troubleshooting questions asked by people who are
cycling their new Aquaripure. There are really only a
few specific situations that occasionally arise in
relation to a new nitrate filter. These situations only
occur some of the time, are usually caused by specific
circumstances and have fairly simple solutions.
First make sure you have been following the directions. Remove
excess biological filtration. Adjust the flow rate
every 2-3 days and inject nutrient every 4-7 days.
This is all the vast majority of users need to do.
The flow rate and the amount of nutrient injected can be
adjusted up or down slightly in some situations
as indicated below although this is rarely necessary.
My
Aquaripure was working great but I think something
happened that killed off the bacteria.
How do I get it working again?
Occasionally something can disrupt the bacteria in
the Aquaripure such as the use of antibiotics in the
tank or maybe switching to a different aquarium.
If you feel the bacteria in the nitrate filter have been
"killed off" or disrupted then don't worry. It
will get back to normal but it might take another month
or so. To speed up the process you can also inject
nutrient every four days for a while. Once it is
cycled you can just resume the feeding and adjustments
as you normally would. You can also purchase
additional bacterial culture in our
Other Products page.
The flow
rate of my nitrate filter fluctuates excessively and even
completely stops at times.
This can actually be a
good sign. It generally means that the Aquaripure is
beginning to work. Some fluctuation is inevitable
and normal. When the Aquaripure is fed it
creates a bacterial bloom within the filter. The
billions of bacteria create resistance to the water flow
but this is also what cleans the water and removes
nitrates.
If you are following the
directions to adjust the denitrator correctly it should always
be able to get a strong flow when the flow valve is wide open.
It is important to open the
flow valve
completely
and then
immediately decrease the flow to the correct rate each
time you adjust it (every 2-3 days.) Bacteria can build up
in the narrow tubing and this will clear out the tubing and
valve of any bacterial build up. It will also let you
accurately gauge the flow since when you check the flow
rate the end of the outflow tube may be partially empty giving
the appearance that the flow rate is less than it actually is.
If the outflow has completely
stopped even when the flow control valve is wide open then the
outflow tubing and flow valve needs to be cleaned. Simply
unscrew the outflow tubing and flow control valve and rinse it in hot water
and blow on it
until it is cleared.
If you still feel the Aquaripure
is slowing excessively you can adjust the flow rate slightly
faster when you adjust it but never more than 50%. If this
is done you should be careful to monitor it to ensure the
denitrator stays cycled and reduce the flow rate if it does not
stay cycled.
Also note that the pump provided with the denitrator will not provide enough power to pump water
from a sump tank, through the denitrator, and into the
main tank. If the pump is placed in the sump then the
outflow must be placed in the sump.
It has been over eight weeks
and my filter has still not cycled.
Aquaripure's filters
are now pre-populated with more live bacteria culture
than ever to ensure it cycles as fast as possible.
However, it can still sometimes take up to 10 weeks to
really notice a difference. Nitrate filters can be less efficient in aquariums with a lot of
excessive filtration such as a large wet/dry filter
combined with a skimmer and a lot of live rock.
Basically, the water entering the filter may be high in nitrates but
very low in organic matter. In some extreme cases the
nitrate filter can have difficulty cycling at all but there
is an easy solution.
The Aquaripure is a
comprehensive biological filter. Other biological
filtration can interfere with the function of the Aquaripure.
The Aquaripure needs to break down some of the organic matter so
that it can use up the oxygen in the filter and produce the
anaerobic bacteria that then break down the nitrates.
You will need to get rid of other biological filtration at the
time you install the Aquaripure. For example, get rid of
all of the bio-balls in a wet/dry and/or remove all other
similar biological media. If you have a powerful protein skimmer reduce
the skimming action so less organic material is removed by the
skimmer. Don't worry! The Aquaripure will pick up the
slack. This will insure the anaerobic zone in the
Aquaripure remains established. All that is really needed
with an Aquaripure nitrate filter is minimal basic
physical filtration and strong water circulation. The
other biological filtration can be eliminated gradually over a
few weeks to be cautious and to allow the tank to acclimate.
In heavily stocked tanks with little rock or decoration a small
amount of other biological filtration may be acceptable.
You can also reduce the rate of the outflow
by about 25% or so. This will also help insure the
anaerobic zone remains established. For
increased performance of the denitrator in these systems you can also
feed the denitrator as often as every four days and
adjust the flow control valve up to every two days.
Please see Aquaripure's
Advanced Aquarium Tips for more info. The vast
majority of users will achieve a complete reduction of
nitrates using the instructions provided.
After I
feed the filter there is a slight cloudiness in my
tank.
Occasionally some of the bacteria from the nitrate
filter
can escape into the tank causing a slight cloudiness.
It should disappear on its own in a day or two but if it
is severe then a water change is recommended. Reduce the amount of
nutrient injected by about 25% and slightly reduce the
water flow as needed to eliminate this problem.
Once the Aquaripure cycles and nitrates reach zero this
effect will be minimized and you can try increasing the
flow rate and nutrients. This usually only happens when
the Aquaripure is slightly oversized for the aquarium.
The
effluent of the filter smells.
This can
also sometimes happen with an oversized nitrate filter. It
can be normal for a denitrator to have a slight rotten
egg smell occasionally but it should only be noticeable
if you put your nose right up to the tube. Let me
explain what has happened and then I will explain the
solution.
When the
anaerobic bacteria run out of nitrates they will begin
to break down the sulfates in the water. Sulfates don't
really harm anything at all so no one is concerned about
them very much. When the bacteria break down sulfates it
produces Hydrogen Sulfide gas. Hydrogen Sulfide gas is
not very soluble in water and so does not build up in
the water in an aquarium unless there is no water flow
or aeration at all and it will escape into the
atmosphere. The human nose is extremely sensitive to
hydrogen sulfide which has that distinctive odor. A
person can smell it at concentrations as low as 20 parts
per billion.
Fortunately there is an
easy
solution. You
should actually increase the flow rate by 25% or more
(not decrease), reduce the amount of nutrient injected
by 25% and trickle the outflow through carbon. This should
eliminate any noticeable hydrogen sulfide smell. Running
the effluent through a small bag of carbon will help
remove any traces. Also make sure the outflow and the water in
your aquarium is being sufficiently aerated.
How do I store the
Aquaripure for later use?
The vast majority of the water in the filter can drained from
the unit by removing the tubing and tilting at an angle it so
that the inflow/outflow of the unit is at the very bottom.
The filter
may need to rotated and flipped several times to get as much water as
possible out of the unit. Then you need to obtain a cheap
air pump and connect it to the inflow tubing and let air
circulate throughout the unit until it is completely dry
internally. You will want to rotate the filter
periodically to facilitate the evaporation of the water.
This may take a week or so. When finished the Aquaripure
will be functionally as good as new and ready for storage as
long as needed. When you re-connect the Aquaripure you can
purchase additional bacterial culture for faster cycling.
Without adding bacterial cultures the Aquaripure will cycle
naturally but will take much longer, about two months.
Summary
Aquaripure's filters cycle without incident the majority of
the time. Fluctuation in the flow rate is normal and
necessary when the filter initially cycles. If the water flow
is stopped when you go to feed you can clean the flow
control valve and then adjust the flow valve as directed
to prevent recurrences. If you
notice an excessive smell coming from the
filter then you
should actually increase the flow rate by about 25% (not
decrease), reduce the amount of nutrient injected by 25%
and trickle the outflow through carbon if necessary.
If your aquarium has nitrates but little or no organic
matter in the tank then the denitrator may not be as
efficient. Eliminate the other biological
filtration in the aquarium, lower the flow rate by about 25%,
and inject nutrients up to every four days. If you notice any
cloudiness in the tank just lower the amount of nutrient
injected and the flow rate by about 25%.
For all other questions
just contact:

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Extra Tips:
-The Aquaripure can
also be fed the recommended amount of nutrient up to
every four days although once a week is sufficient in
most aquariums.
-A partial water change
every three or four months and the use of phosphate
remover is recommended to keep trace elements and
phosphate at optimal levels.
-Monitor pH levels and
when pH levels are low use baking soda to increase it.
-When you add water to
your tank lost due to evaporation use a distilled or
purified water or at the least use a water conditioner.
-The Aquaripure
takes approximately 4-10 weeks to cycle
before you will begin to notice a significant reduction
in nitrates. Continue to do water changes during that
time.